![]() For location portraits, I’ve continued to use it, and while the X vignetting is an issue, particularly with wider lenses, I’ve been happy with the results when using the 56, 35 and lately the 23 (I used to use the X100s for 35mm images, but having bought the 23 I find it easier to use my 2 XT1s than swopping between different bodies). I looked into using different nd filters and in the end opted to try a variable, going with the Hoya version. ![]() ![]() Having been a Nikon user all my career, when I started using the X Pro1 the relatively slow shutter sync with flash and the lack of and ISO 100/50 setting, was a big limitation. The thing is, it seems on an M8 you can shoot at 1/4000 so you can obtain a medium density filter and work within the high shutter speeds, but this isn’t the case on my camera. It seems to me that the variable is the best option because it offers the max density and everything in between, so if the sun isn’t as intense I can just lower the density. Since I only shoot B&W, will it have the same effect on my images? Honestly, I’ve never shot color film, so not sure how the qualities compare.Īlso, since my fastest shutter speed is 1/1000, it seems that I will need the highest density I can get when shooting in California sunshine at f2 or f1.4. The artifacts don’t bother me as much as the contrast. I see what you mean by the distortion created by the variable ND filter, but all of your examples are for color. I’ve recently acquired some fast lenses for my Lecia MP, the summicron 90/2 (read your review on it, can’t wait to start using mine, haven’t received it yet) and the summilux 50/1.4. I know this is an old entry but hopefully you can still help me out. I’ve bookmarked it and will be checking in periodically □ Hey, discovered your blog about an hour ago, it’s fantastic. Only to return home to Normal single set ND filters. A little word of advice from a dude who has tried a bucketload of variable filters. Minolta MD 50mm f/1.2 – w/ Variable B+W Minolta MD 58mm f/1.4 – Singh Ray Variable ND filter. Both with the same specular highlight artefacts. Notice the linear artefacts in the speculars.Ī couple of shots using the two most expensive Vari ND filters I’ve tried. No specular highlight artefacts! Hama Variable NDx2-400 crop. Notice the low contrast, grey milky tones to the greens. Best value for money in ND filters as far as I’ve learned. It costs twice that of the normal Hoya NDx8 filter which I now use on ALL my lenses. Low contrast, grey dull colours and artefacts. The Hama is the cheapest, and also the far worst of the bunch. Again, this is to show the artefacts. As stated above this is the same for all 5 of the above brands. Both fitted on the Fujinon XF 56mm f/1.2. The shots below were taken using the Hoya NDx8 and the Variable Hama NDx2-400. And before you start saying that this is only true on cheap filter brands… trust me…it’s not! I’ve tried variable ND’s from the following companies, and ALL with no exception show this issue!ī+W, Hoya, Hama, Heliopan, and Singh Ray. What this sadly does is introduce artefacts into your out of focus areas. Polarized at a 90 degree angle, the filter lets in zero light. You twist the filter to offset the polarisation. What a variable ND filter really is, is two pieces of polarising glass. They will mess up your gorgeous bokeh, and specular highlights! Ever since I started going “collectors heaven” with the old 50 mm lenses I have been needing ND filters in all shapes and sizes. That should no longer be a secret to the people who follow this blog. Still my point remains: I would always recommend buying non-variable ND’s)Ī little warning for my fellow photographers today. I just recieved a new singhray yesterday, and I will try the tests again. We have had some conversations as to why this could be, and we can’t seem to find out. ![]() (EDIT: Over at f-stop forum Mark Soon has posted some findings with the Singhray that shows no artefacts.
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